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Continued from Part 1, which has the detailed description of the parts and tools.
If you just arrived and landed here, please start with Part 1.

I started with a simpler one, 9 joints (neck, 2 shoulders, 2 elbows, 2 hips, 2 knees).
This one (Example 1):
Assembling joints is described in Part 1, here are just some additional details.

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Abbreviations above each row of the photos:
LP – Left Photo
RP – Right Photo
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LP: The wooden chest and hip connector pieces are made from 1″ square wood tiles.

manual drill handle and 2 mm drill bits

Drill 4 holes

M2 x 10 mm screws and M2 hex nuts

For proportions I was using the same proportions chart as in Monsieur Poirot.
Sometime in the middle of the process my armature switched gender. Oh well.
Ball joints and chest piece together.

magic sculpt epoxy putty

brass connectors M2 x 10 mm (actually, those connectors are not really necessary, as I found later)

The hands:
finger armature wire 32 ga
round brass tube 5/32″
tube cutter
brass connectors M2 x 10 mm

In order to get the right size of the hands (and feet) in 1:6 scale, I set the image size 3 cm (for hands) and 4 cm (for feet). Photoshop and maybe other image editing software allows that.

The feet:
brass strip 6 mm wide, punctured with an ice pick, the hole filed flat with the surface with a needle file.

The head, hands and feet are removable – just to make it simpler when making the doll.

Sealing the connectors on the rods:

The shape of magic sculpt layer was wrong, I had to trim the magic sculpt after it cured, with a x-acto knife and a file.
RP: before and after trimming

Incidentally, a finger cut off the old leather glove saves a lot of cuts on the thumb, if you cut like I do.

Joints are sealed:

Some burlesque dancing to celebrate:

Continued on Part 3

To be continued
Thank you for watching 🙂